Book Review: The Sun is a Compass by Caroline Van Hemert

Getting out into nature is my favorite way to recharge.  I like to pedal along local trails, paddle in our local waterways and hike or run in the hills whenever possible.  But I've never thought to self power myself over 4,000 miles of North America's wildest areas.  The Sun is a Compass is Caroline Van Hemert's story about the trip she and her husband made from Bellingham, Washington north to the Arctic Ocean and backdown through the Brooks Range to Kotzebue, Alaska. Their 4,000 mile trek included miles paddled in their custom crafted, handmade rowboats and long stretches of remote landscape hiked or skied in Canada and Alaska.                                                                                                                                   

Caroline is a native Alaskan, and is an intrepid traveler.  She also set out on this trip after finishing her Ph.D. dissertation in ornithology.  Through the story, Caroline weaves in stories of the birds she sees during the trip, giving glimpses of the birds' journeys and the effects climate change is having on their futures.  On a journey of this magnitude, birds sometimes were the only wildlife the pair would see for days, and they were always a welcome sight for Caroline.

To travel to the areas the couple did took extensive planning.  For months they were pouring over maps, guidebooks and consulting others about the trip.  My favorite statement about how big an undertaking this was is when Caroline sees the topographical maps her husband, Pat, taped on the wall, and they are tilting crookedly.  This irritates her.  Pat's response shows just what a big undertaking this was.  The tilting wasn't due to him sloppily taping up maps, but due to the curvature of the earth.  "The scale is that big"

Planning also involved packing up supply boxes of food that would be dropped off for them along the route.  This is a journey of endurance, and their food supplies were full of high calorie, easily prepared, often dehydrated foods.  The resupply boxes were always a welcome sight for the pair after traveling hundred of miles.  The hardest wait comes for a resupply box in the Noatak Valley.  Caroline and her husband arrive and expect the supply box to be delivered after they call the pilot.  But when they call on their satellite phone, weather conditions have the plane grounded.  Day after day passes, with the couple losing energy and nearing starvation.  The sight of that plane on the 5th day was euphoric, and the items in that box were quickly eaten until they were sated.  

Caroline and her husband have some magical sightings of animals.  They also have memorable interactions with people during their trip.  My favorite story is of Ricky who lives in a 140-square foot house in Noatak Valley.  Of course when you are the only person in the middle of nowhere, when two travelers set foot near you, you welcome them in, warm them up, feed them and trade stories.  Ricky was a remarkable man, one of several personalities they meet during the trip.  

This book proved to be a great escape from the recent smoky, hot air we've been experiencing on the West coast.  Well written and very informative.  Take the journey and read this book.  

Step by Step Up Mount Kilimanjaro: Summiting with the Help of Many

Summit of Mount Kilimanjaro

This past January my husband and I had the life-changing experience of getting to the top of Mt. Kilimanjaro.  This has been a personal goal of mine for several years, and only with the help of great people was I able to accomplish it.  Thank you everyone who got me up and down the mountain safely.  Only with the help of caring and talented people would I have been able to summit Mt. Kilimanjaro.  It is an awe inspiring sight, and getting up and down the mountain takes a lot of people to let anyone do it. 

Getting to Moshi, Tanzania.  I have to thank my husband for getting us to Mt. Kilimanjaro at the beginning of the dry season.  He is a great travel agent;  lining up our flights, arranging the tour with Zara Tours and getting us ready for the trek.  His efforts got us to Moshi, Tanzania at the beginning of January.  Now that we were at the foot of Mt. Kilimanjaro, my welfare was also in the hands of the team at Zara Tours.  

And Away We Go.  On our first morning in Moshi we got our bags packed up and we headed out to the Machame Gate. When you are waiting to head out, you are lingering at the Machame Gate along with many other tourists.  Lots of cell phone pictures are taken, backpacks are rearranged and lunches are eaten.  While we tourists are getting ready, our team of guides and porters are getting our gear weighed, the food and gear for the trek arranged and the team parses out packs and supplies evenly among the porters.  (To make sure you don't overpack, check out my recommended packing list here)  As we stepped foot on the Machame Route my heart was in my throat.  What had I gotten us into?

Slowly, Slowly.  Hiking Mt. Kilimanjaro is a fairly easy (some may say it is a challenging, yet non-technical), 6 day hike.  We chose to do the Machame Trail, also known as the Whisky Route.  It isn't the easiest trail, but anyone who can at times hike a moderately difficult trail in the mountains would be able to do it.  But the challenge with Kilimanjaro is the altitude.  Kilimanjaro is the world's highest freestanding mountain and the highest point in Africa.  With a total elevation gain from the Machame Gate to Uhuru Peak of 13,978 ft (4,261 meters for my fellow metric fans), acclimating to the increase in elevation is very important.  From the first steps you take with your guides at the gate they encourage you to go "pole, pole", which in Swahili means "slow, slow"

Day one with Victor, our skilled guide.

Wonder in the Tropical Rainforest.  Our first day of hiking, slowly, had us hiking through tropical rainforest.  The botanist in me was thrilled to see plants and flowers only found on the mountain, including Kilimanjaro impatiens and gladiolus, as well as heliocrysanthemums and other everlastings.  Starting any adventure always has you viewing things through the lens of the inexperienced.  Every step is new and exciting, and you have to get your bearings about how things work up on the trail.

Coming up fast behind you.  Hiking along so slowly, you quickly learn that you need to pick a side of the trail and stick to it, preferably the same side your travel mates choose.  Why?  Because throughout the trek you are being passed by the porters who are lugging up packs, tents, food and water to the next camp site.  I wondered why they passed us so fast and then we would find them soon enough resting along the trail.  Why didn't they just slowly ascend like we were instructed to do.  Well, of course they are acclimated to the elevation and the continuous elevation gain they are experiencing.  They are also in top notch shape, doing this trek on a regular basis during the high seasons.  But I finally figured it out.  If I had to lug 50 pounds of stuff up the hill I would want to get that load off my back as often as possible.

Commaradarie on the trail:  My husband and I had a great couple to travel with.  They were newlyweds from Norway and had great enthusiasm for the adventure, easy-going attitudes and both had a great sense of humor.

Our team packing up for the Day 2

Campsite 1:  After the first day of hiking we made it to the Machame Hut at 9,940 ft (3,000 meters).  This is the first time we witnessed the extent of the work our porters and guides had done.  Our sleeping tents were all set up, our dining tent was nearby, and we were given warm water to clean up with.  Then we were quickly escorted to the dining tent for hot coffee, tea and dinner.  I wasn't sure what to expect for meals, and was pleasantly surprised.  We had warm drinks, soup, a complete dinner and fruit for dessert.  Our guide, Victor, gave us an update about what to expect and plans for the next day.  The four of us trekkers followed orders and got to bed quickly and were ready to go early the next morning--at least most of us were.

Will We Make it Through Day 2?  Starting out on our second day my husband got very sick.  He was convinced he had altitude sickness and would have to turn back.  Our guide Victor wasn't convinced of this, and encouraged him to keep going.  Again, just getting accustom to the trail we were also getting accustom to Victor.  Who was this guy?  Did he have any experience on Mt. Kilimanjaro?  Did he even know the signs of mountain sickness?  Oh, we hoped so.  And I have to say, that's why it is so important to have a good guide and a reliable tour company.  Victor knew to let my husband rest, encouraged him to drink and eat small amounts of food, and tested him regularly for the level of oxygen in his blood.  His oxygen level was good.  Nausea and GI distress were bad, but getting better.  Probably a bad reaction to malaria medicine.  After walking for 6 hours, uphill, with increasing elevation for 3.5 miles, my husband made it to Shira Camp.  Victory!  Almost, he quickly threw up while entering the dining tent.  Our trekking mates took it in stride, and Victor made sure my husband had soup and luckily, an anti-nausea tablet that evening.

How Did This Get Here?  When you get to Shira Camp, you are at a large campsite.  Many other tour companies have their tents set up and it is quite a busy campsite.  One thing I noticed were two large buildings constructed at Shira Camp.  First, there was the park office, a good sized permanent park office building.  And then there was a brand new large bathroom complex.  What struck me was that each piece of lumber, each floor tile and everything in between had been packed on the back of a porter to get it there, for the use of us tourists climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro.  While I understand the need to have these buildings, it filled me with awe that porters had had to pack building materials up there--over every rock, wet creekbed and fallen tree on the rigorous Whiskey Route trail.  It really takes a lot of people to make things happen, even the construction of those buildings at 12,630 ft (3,850 m).  Quite humbling.  

Porters, Guides and Hikers.
Note the egg crate on the porter to the right of this photo

Day 3.  Heading out from Shira Camp the porters get going as quickly as possible.  They put our tents away, packed up all the food and hauled it up to the next campsite.  When you hike for days the porters have to carry all the food for several days.  I was always impressed when I saw the food porter who had the crate of eggs on his back.  We had eggs for breakfast every morning, and only because those porters got those delicate eggs up to our campsite, safe and sound.  Here's a picture of hikers and porters going up the mountain.  Note the egg crate on the porter to the right.  (That's for eggs, not the soft foam egg crate for sleeping on that some backpackers may know of).  I also have to point out the sheer size of the loads some porters have to carry.  You can see some carrying tents and heavy loads on their heads and backs.  Thank you porters for all your hard work.  

The Barranco Wall:  After Shira Camp it was off to Lava Tower and the Barranco Huts.  Having learned how the flow of the day goes, I got to understand what each porter, guide and team member was in charge of.  At the Barranco Huts, I asked Victor if I could interview the team.  First the crew welcomed us with a song

And then I got to meet the rest of the crew.  Each man here contributed to the success and welfare of each other and of us hikers.  

Our Porters: 

Chief Porter:  Fredy Kings

Elias:  Luggage Porter

 Msafiri, Luggage Porter
(I am very sorry I didn't pack lighter!)

Joe:  Food and Fruit Porter

Thomas, Food and Cooking Porter

Damian, Baker

Issa, Food Basket Porter--20 years experience

Athean, Beef and Egg Porter

Rashidi, Food Porter for the Crew 

Clemens, Our Cook

Kalvin, our friendly waiter and porter

Japhet, our waiter and junior guide

Peter:  Tent Crew

Geofrey, Table, Plates and Chair Porter

Rafiki Apollo

The Bare Necessities:  Adventures like this quickly make you realize how important the little things are.  My trekking mates and I had opted to include a little luxury on our trek, a personal bathroom.  Back at home while I was preparing for this trip I had trained all I could.  Hiking, snowshoeing, going up to higher elevations, running and biking whenever I had a chance.  But one thing was quite daunting to me--the facilities at the camps are very rustic, with bathrooms being small wood huts with a hole in the floor.  While I had thought I could just handle it, the option of having a portable bathroom was very attractive, and I was so relieved when the other 3 in my hiking group also wanted this convenience.  Yes, readers, I was thrilled to have a private bathroom during the hike.  But remember, everything needed on the trek are packed on the backs of porters and the needs of the tourists are handled by the porters and the guides.  So I say, with much heartfelt thanks, that my porter, Apollo, let me keep my dignity.  Thank you Apollo!

Kissing the Wall and Up to Barafu Camp.  After getting to know our crew better and having a wonderful dinner, we were encouraged to get to sleep because we wanted to head up the Barranco Wall as early as possible--to beat the traffic.  Some people get to Barranco camp, see the imposing wall and turn around.  It was quite impressive, but going up is always much easier than going down.  We turned in early and the next morning started up the trail at around 7:30.  The Barranco Wall is challenging, and of course you are getting passed by porters regularly.  But luckily we were early enough to have few trekkers pass by.  At one part the Wall is so difficult and steep that you have to literally get your face up to the wall in order to pass it, as if you are kissing it.  Our guides got us successfully up the Barranco Wall, and then up and down the next steep valley, on to Karanga Camp.  We had lunch here, at 13,235 ft (4,034 m).  What a lunch it was too.  Fried chicken, french fries and salad.  Well, after all that hiking it was simply delicious.  Yet again, amazing the effort and work the crew did.  After lunch it was a long, slow, hot hike up to the Barafu Huts, our campsite for the rest of the day until heading out to the summit at 11:00 pm.  

Our tent under the peak at Barafu

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Waking Up to the Sound of Popcorn:  Often if you are eating popcorn at 11pm you are also enjoying a movie and a late night.  Not so on Kili.  When we were woken up a bit before midnight to start our final ascent to Uhuru Peak, we were welcomed by the pop pop pop of freshly popping corn.  Often on our trek we had popcorn, both as a snack in our lunchbox and at the start of a meal.  I loved the popcorn, and it made it quite fun to be up in the middle of the night to start a hike in the dark.  

Final Long, Slow Slog: After our light meal we donned our headlamps, our daypacks filled with all the extra layers we could find, our trekking poles, and our hiking boots to slowly finish this hike to the roof of Africa.  It was quite surreal to be heading out in the thin night air, headlamp on, to join a string of lights going up the mountain.  We had beautiful weather.  The temperature was around 28 degrees F (-2 C).  The air was clear and crisp.  Heading up in the dark, with no visual points of reference, the lights of fellow hikers streamed up the mountain into the heavens.  Was that a hiker's headlamp or was it finally a star?  I'll never know.  This was a hard hike with a series of rocky switchbacks and occasional rest stops for warm tea and a snack.  

Guide and Group Leader Victor
15 years of Kilimanjaro trekking experience

Knowledge is Power:  What a Good Guide Knows:  During the entire trek and especially on this final push up the mountain we were hiking alongside others who had various approaches to getting to the top.  Some tour guides used a slow but steady approach.  This was Victor's approach.  Some guides did more of a jackrabbit approach.  They would have their clients hike faster and then within moments the clients would be stopping to catch their breath and grab water and a snack.  These differences in strategy were magnified on this final push up the hill.  We would be slowly walking up to get passed by a jackrabbit.  By the next switchback that rabbit was sitting on a rock, eating a candy bar and begging for this to be over.  As the jackrabbit caught her breath we were slowly inching by her, ultimately reaching the summit within a few minutes of her.  

Joseph:  Assistant Guide.  9 years of Kili Experience

What a Good Guide Does:  Victor and his Assistant Guide Joseph were with us throughout the trip, and for the summit our waiter and guide-in-training, Japhet, was helping us too.  Victor has over 15 years of experience on Mt. Kilimanjaro, from being a porter to a cook to a guide to his current role as Group Leader.  He has seen a lot of serious incidents on the mountain, and has learned a lot.  Victor is very personable, and he was constantly seeing old friends on the trail, walking with them for miles and catching up on how things are going.  Victor also has built a good reputation with his fellow guides and porters.  Zara Tours is a local Tanzanian tour company.  Zara Tours wants to create a consistent experience for their guests, and that starts with having quality staff for every step of the journey.  As the consummate recruiter, I was interested in the staffing philosophy for Victor's team.  Most of the guides, porters and crew have worked together for years.  They are routinely working together up on the mountain for days on end.  They are also working with new clients, learning about them and making sure they are safe while also attending to their needs.  As Victor said, having a team that works well together and provides a quality experience to the guests is what he strives for.  Every member of his team must do their best to ensure that guests have a positive experience.  And in our world of reviews, ratings and bloggers, creating consistent quality experiences is even more important.  So Victor chooses to work with a strong crew that he has worked with for years.  Additionally, Victor is constantly mentoring his staff, helping them to do better and also move people up the ranks if it is prudent.  

On the Mountain Training.  Viewing personnel management while hiking the mountain may only be done by management consultants and executive recruiters, but no matter where you are, good managers are always employing the same techniques.  During our daily hikes, the porters would pack up the camp while Victor oversaw it.  The four of us hikers would start off on the trail with Joseph or Japhet.  Within a few minutes Victor would be right behind us on the trail, and quickly our porters would be passing us as well.  Victor was guiding us throughout the daily hike, and an assistant guide was with us most of the time as well.  Towards the end of the day's hike, the assistant guides would head up to the next camp.  By about the last half mile of our hike to a camp we would be welcomed by one of the junior guides.  Japhet or another guide in training would welcome Victor and take his pack.  They would talk and keep the pace, giving us updates as needed about the trail, the campsite, etc.  This routine, on-the-job training is how all apprentices learn, and also is an invaluable part of quality personnel development.  It was clearly evident that the younger guides enjoyed working with Victor and were developing great guide skills. 

What it Takes to Get to the Top:  With our slow, slow pace the four of us hikers diligently stepped up to the top of the mountain.  We got to Uhuru Peak around 8:30 am that morning.  With the thin air, the steady uphill climb and the awesomeness of it all, it can be quite disorienting.  For even the most athletic mountain climber getting to the summit is challenging.  And for the four of us in Victor's group, we had a lot of help from our guides.   We had encouragement, refreshments and sympathy during that final climb.  Many of the guides on the mountain that morning were singing songs that started at the top of the trail and continued, in tune, right down the mountain.  We had rest breaks with hot tea and biscuits.  And when we really got out of it towards the top, our guides grabbed our packs, helped us on with our gloves and jackets, and even made sure we had sips of water when needed.  That's better than I do sometimes on hikes with the family!  Getting towards the top, both my husband and I had Victor or Joseph carrying our daypacks and the guides were very good at getting our pictures taken when we could barely focus our own eyes.  Victor, Joseph and Japhet got us to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro and we wouldn't have been able to do it without them.  

The Highest Point in Africa:  We Made It!
Clockwise from top left: My husband, Amy, Guide Victor, Assistant Guide Japhet, Assistant Guide Joseph, Fellow Climbers Golf and Isabelle.

Getting back to the rainforest and not breaking a leg

And Back Down:  So we made it up, but all things that go up must come back down.  Descending is  one of the best feelings in the world.  Any lingering headaches or altitude issues dissipate.  It is easier to breath.  And you are euphoric for having done it.  But for anyone planning to climb a mountain like this, do remember that it is even harder to go down.  It is tougher on your joints and also more accidents occur going down than going up.  But luckily we had a good team of trekkers, guides and porters.  Two days of descending found us back at the Mweka Gate, and then in our jeep heading back to the Springlands Hotel.  

Thank you Victor, Joseph and Japhet, and our entire team on the trek.  We greatly thank you for all of your hard work.  

But the Adventure Continues:  After our triumphant trip up and down the mountain, we still had a few days of safari to enjoy.  At the hotel we met our safari guide Fabian.  Fabian took us out to Tarangire National Park.  This was a beautiful natural park where we were sitting in a tower of giraffes and a herd of elephants.  I do love giraffes.  And I came to love warthogs.  The young warthogs are adorable.  We then stayed at the Highview Hotel.  The next day Fabian took us out to the Ngorongoro Conservation Area, where we saw lions, elephants, cape buffalo, hyenas, jackals, rhinos and so many more animals in their natural habitat.  For lunch we got to see a pod of hippos bellowing in the pond under the baobab tree.  Fabian did a great job of answering all my nature girl questions and always finding exactly the right place to be at the right time.  

Visiting the Elephant Caves:  The next day we stayed close to the hotel.  We took a walking tour to the Elephant Caves within the Ngorogoro Conservation Area.  Our guide Ali and our Maasai escort walked us up to the rim of the crater, checked us in with the park naturalist and ranger and off we set to see the Elephant Caves.  This was a fun hike in the hills, with our local experts, naturalists and AK-47 toting Park Ranger.  When we got close to the caves we were all too happy to have some firearm protection.  Up the hill in the caves was a pair of Cape Buffalos, one of the most dangerous wild animals in Africa.  But they headed out and we got to see the famous caves the elephants and other animals visit to get necessary vitamins and minerals.  

Next Stop:  Lake Manyara.  The next day Fabian drove us to Lake Manyara National Park, where we saw more exotic animals in their natural habitats.  I was glad I had no food in sight when we were in a troop of baboons--which got on our jeep.  

Safari Guide Fabian and Amy at Lake Manyara 

After touring Lake Manyara, Fabian delivered us back to the Springlands Hotel.  Thank you for being a great safari guide Fabian! 

Next Day, Fly Away:  Our visit to Tanzania was remarkable and very memorable.  Yes, we made it to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro.  And yes, we had a wonderful experience with wildlife on our safari.  But as with every trip, it was the people who made it happen and made it fun.  Everyone we met in Tanzania was exceptionally friendly and helpful.  With kindred spirits who have a wide smile and welcoming personality, I truly loved Tanzania.  And the people who helped us during each of our steps were professional and very kind people.  I sincerely thank everyone who made this trip happen--especially the man who will always be identified simply as My Husband!  

Notes on South Africa

Cheers from Mossel Bay!

Greetings from the other side of the world.  Last month I traveled to South Africa to learn about the wine industry there and explore the Western Cape province.  Traveling to the other side of the globe with my husband took some time, with a three day layover in Istanbul, Turkey letting us get used to the 11 hour time change.  Istanbul was a great country to spend some time in--we could walk to the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia easily from the hotel.  Such an ancient trading port with so much history.

Hopped off the bus in Camps Bay
to enjoy a glass of wine at Zenzero

Arriving in Cape Town, South Africa. Cape Town is the mother city of the country.  We flew in at the end of February, which found us in beautiful, balmy autumnal weather.  For several nights we stayed in the downtown area of Cape Town.  The first night we made our way out to the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront, a very modern shopping and dining complex at the marina in Cape Town.  It felt a lot like Monterey or San Francisco, but with a touch of Afrikaans thrown in and some new dishes to sample.  And it was surprisingly affordable in South Africa.  When we were traveling the US Dollar was buying a bit more than 10 Rands.  Dining out with an appetizer, entrees for two and a bottle of wine typically cost about $40.

Things to see and do in Cape Town:  In the next few days we took the Hop-on, Hop-Off tour bus which allowed us to learn about the entire city and spend time at places we wanted to explore a bit more.  We saw all the government buildings including the Houses of Parliament where Nelson Mandela gave his first speech after his release from prison, the church where Desmond Tutu was archbishop, the wonderful Kirstenbosch botanical gardens and the Constantia wine producing area.

Neil Grant of Burrata

Food and Wine:  All good travel includes plenty of wonderful meals, and South African food was very good.  We had a lot of curries and fresh seafood.  I loved trying as many South African dishes as possible, and have a soft spot now for bobotie.  Not so much for biltong, but I wouldn't mind packing it for a hiking trip.  I came across a "pop-up" winery spot near Long Street, and got to sample local food with the wines of Spier.  We also got to have some great pizza with a wonderful Cinsault (2012 Waterkloof, Stellenbosch) at Burrata, a great restaurant run by Neil Grant in The Old Biscuit Mill.  Neil is also the President of the South African Sommeliers Association.

Visiting with the elephants in Knysna

Touring the Western Cape:  From Cape Town we headed out east to Cape Agulhas, the southernmost tip of Africa and then on to Knysna.  Knysna was a quiet waterfront town with beautiful views of the bay and the ocean.  Knysna also had an elephant sanctuary where we got to be with the elephants and learn about their habitat and rehabilitation.  Touring to Mossel Bay had me eating oysters on the half shell with a fun South African sparkling wine.  Delicious!  A surprising hit of this part of the trip was visiting the Birds of Eden, the world's largest free flight aviary.

The thatched huts at the game lodge

Game Reserve:  Visiting South Africa as a tourist would not be complete without seeing Africa's Big 5; the elephant, rhino, leopard, lion and the Cape buffalo.  Our trip took us to the Garden Route Game Lodge, where we saw 4 of the 5 big animals.  Our guide did a great job of teaching us about the animals, and keeping us close to the animals but out of harm's way.  We stayed in a private thatched roof cottage and enjoyed ourselves immensely.

La Carbonne's Winemaker Hardus Van Heerden

Wine Country:  The Western Cape has many wine producing areas, and we visited Franschhoek, a quaint European enclave just to the east of Cape Town.  Winery visits included Glenwood, Haute Cabriere, La Motte and Chamonix. We also got a personal tour at La Carbonne during the harvest, visiting with Winemaker Hardus Van Heerden for a tour of the production facility and samples of the tank fermentations and of the wines in barrel.  Visiting La Motte for lunch we dined on wonderful cuisine at Pierneef a La Motte, an award winning restaurant in Franschhoek.  This was consumed along with a memorable Shiraz blended with Viognier.


Enjoying a braai with locals:  Upon returning to Cape Town we had the fun experience of a braai at Denis Garret's spot in Woodstock, just outside of The Old Biscuit Mill .  Denis Garret is a wine consultant and sommelier serving as an ambassador for Champagnes and Cognac in South Africa.  Denis hosted us at a friend's house where we had wonderful conversation, home cooked food (the grilled pork belly was yummy), superb wine which included a 1981 magnum of Nederburg Edelrood.  That wine had held up wonderfully and was quite a special wine to share that night.  Denis is very optimistic about the future of South Africa's wine and culinary scene and provides educational and consulting services to promote the wines of the Western Cape.  He's also an excellent host who knows A LOT about wine, a good friend to have!



University of Stellenbosch.  The next day we took the Metro train to Stellenbosch where we visited with Dr. Wessel du Toit who teaches enology at the University of Stellenbosch.  The university is the epicenter for enology and viticulture studies and research in all of Africa.  It was quite interesting to learn about the wine industry and about enological research from a well respected professor in the winemaking field.  Having lunch with Professor du Toit allowed us to find out about the students involved in the program, the connections with the wine industry and about some of the research projects the university is undertaking.


It's All About the People:  As always, the people are the most important component of any trip I take, and everyone in South Africa was extremely friendly and approachable.  From wine folks who took us under their wing to commuters on the train who offered up stories of day-to-day life, through to the street vendors we dealt with, all the South Africans were excellent ambassadors for their country.  South Africa does have their share of challenges to deal with, just as every country does.  We were pleasantly surprised by everything in South Africa, and would go back in a heartbeat--if only the getting there part wasn't so exhausting.  If you are interested in visiting South Africa I give it two thumbs up--way up.

Insights on People through Travel

I'm getting my bag packed for a summer vacation.  I use the word vacation very loosely.  I will be traveling with the family to Europe and will be visiting some clients when I am in Germany, France and Italy.  So you might say it is part work, part pleasure.

For the last few weeks I've been getting my itinerary planned; checking with family, friends and contacts around the globe to see if our schedules can sync up.  Over the last few years WineTalent's client list has become more international, and with that comes more places to visit.  But it isn't about places, but the people who are there.  When I started to think about it, it struck me that what I like the most about traveling isn't the sightseeing but the people who live there.   I like learning about how people in different locals and cultures go about their daily lives.  Getting to meet a local always trumps any tourist destination for me.

Several years ago I went with my husband to visit my nephew in Cairo.  He was teaching at a school outside of Cairo, and welcomed us to his place.  He also joined us on our tour of Egypt.  When we first arrived at the school, we met many of the staff and a few students.  Our accommodations were a private apartment--with air conditioning--that was inside the school compound.  Waking up the next morning we were in a completely different place--new country, new sounds, new smells, new language, new time zone.  Our early morning wake-up call was the morning call to prayer, in Arabic of course.  Knowing that we were doomed to get no more sleep until jet-lag exhaustion hit us again later in the day, we went for a walk around the compound.  Oh, what fun it is to get followed by a pack of jackal-looking dogs!  Luckily the dogs were friendly. 

That trip was a lot of fun.  We met many new people and on our tour we saw some excellent sights.  The snorkeling in the Red Sea was fantastic--the best I had ever seen.  Before my trip I had mentioned it to one of my recruiting friends, Heidi, and she mentioned that a good friend of her's also lived in Cairo.  Heidi introduced the two of us and we exchanged some emails and planned to meet up when I was in the area.  When we were there I contacted her to see about getting together in Cairo when we returned from visiting the Red Sea.  "Oh no, unfortunately we will be vacationing down in El Quseir this weekend," she said.   I told her we were there now, staying at the Flamenco Hotel.  It turned out her family was staying at the hotel right next door--the Movenpick.  Looking at our map--we decided we would swim over.

This has got to be one of the funniest meet-ups I've ever had.  I had just read Helen Fielding's novel "Olivia Joules and the Overactive Imagination".  Actually Heidi had given the book to me.  In that book Joules has some funny adventures, a la James Bond.  In one part she has to scuba out of the evil villain's lair.  When I was snorkeling a mile away to the Movenpick I felt very secret-agentish.  While I did not have a tuxedo under my wetsuit--or a wetsuit for that matter--it was fun to step out of the water, onto the beach and settle down for a Mojito with new-found friends.  Talking with ex-pats overlooking the Red Sea has a certain out-of-body feel to it.  But talking with them was very interesting.  If I hadn't of tried to make the connection, I wouldn't have learned about their experiences in Egypt, or have tapped my secret agent snorkeling skills.

I think I have a habit of making connections when traveling.  About a decade ago my husband and I were traveling to France and visited an old family friend of his. Traveling through the back roads of the Champagne region, trying to find a small town was tres romantic, but as with all navigation-intensive trips, a bit nerve-racking. Upon our arrival, we had a very enjoyable visit with someone my husband hadn't seen in over 20 years.  The couple was very friendly, and I think they were happy to have some Americans in the picture for a few days.  They treated us to wonderful food and drink--probably causing me to acquire a fondness for Ricard, but luckily not for Gauloise cigarettes.  We spent Easter Sunday with them, eating a wonderful leg of lamb and toasting with Pommery Champagne.  That has become the standard by which all Easter feasts are now measured by me.

When I was last in Europe, I got to meet up with my long-lost friend Laila in Madrid.  Back in 1990 My soon-to-be husband and I went on a five-month trip of Europe.  Being one-quarter Finn, I had to make my way up to Finland.  But being a college student, I also had no money, and had to camp in Scandinavia.  In Finland my fiance and I camped at a campground in Tampere.  We made friends with the campground hostess.  She was very nice and taught us a lot about Finland and the local customs.  My fiance and I went away for a few days, returning to the campground soaking wet and miserable after spending the night in a ditch--literally.  When she saw us show up, she took us under her wing.  She brought us back to her family's apartment, and then to the family cabin in the country.  As a young romantic, I felt like I had died and gone to heaven.  Running through the fields of Finland brought back all the stories my grandmother had told me nightly growing up.  Wild blueberry picking and Summer Solstice parties were all being realized first-hand by me, there. 

After Finland Laila and I stayed in touch, meeting up in Manhattan in 1993 for a week, and then again in Madrid in  2009.  Having not seen each other in 16 years could have caused us to be strangers again--but not at all.  Upon arriving in Madrid, I called Laila from our hotel room--and she said we were about 6 blocks from her place.  Sheer coincidence.  After unpacking and cleaning up, we headed over to her new restaurant.  Opening the door and seeing her was like seeing a sister.  We quickly got through catching up, and settled into friendly conversations.  She took us on tours of the city, showed us how people lived in Madrid, and taught us how the locals do things. 

While I thoroughly enjoy seeing the sights and sounds of new places, it is the people that really make a tour memorable.  Getting insights into how people go about their daily lives is so interesting to me.  I think that has to be the best part of any trip.  Getting to learn about other people.  And maybe that's why I'm in the recruiting business--learning about people and what type of culture a company and candidate have.  I'll have to do some intensive culture study for the next few weeks to hone my craft!  Bon Voyage Everyone.

Terroir: Experiencing it First Hand

I just posted this on my client blog, but think it will be interesting to you. This is my experience after having traveled for business recently.

Having gotten everything back in order from my travels and visits with clients in France, Spain and Portugal, I have a new found appreciation for how significantly the geography and the geology affect wines around the world. Having grown up in Northern California, I have traveled throughout many of our wine growing locales, and enjoy and appreciate the differences. Prior to my trip, I would have said I have a California palate. Before leaving, I attended a trade tasting for both Argentina and Spain's Rioja region, and the wines were significantly different from each other, in good ways. I have always tried wines from many areas, but haven't always understood what I was drinking.

Upon arriving in France I immediately visited E. Guigal in the Côte Rôtie area of the Rhone. E. Guigal is a large négociant in France that also has their own vineyards and winemaking facilities. Guigal has excellent wines in a broad range of price points. Getting to see the land and the winery allowed me to understand the different techniques they use, and to understand why certain wines tasted the way they did. The winery has several vineyard designate wines that are extraordinary. Seeing the difference a mountain, direction of a hillside or the soil the grapes grew on was quite a lesson in terroir.

Upon leaving Guigal which is in the Northern Rhone, I traveled down through the valley, witnessing the changes in topography, elevation and soil. Côte Rôtie is quite different from Chateauneuf-du-Pape, and the wines reflect it.

Traveling in to Spain, the weather was significantly warmer, and the countryside was much like California. Feeling at home, you would think that the wines would taste similar to Californian wines. But each region within Spain has significant differences. The wines of Tarragona were much different from Jumilla and Yecla, not to mention other wine districts in the country. And while the countryside reminded me of home, the wines had a different personality. While I know this is because the wines are made with grapes that aren't used as much as in California, I think it also has to do with a long history of wine making and use of the land.

I think I would be remiss not to point out that the attitude towards wine significantly affects how the wine tastes. Yes, in a blind taste test this wouldn't be the case, but when you pull in to a roadhouse in Alicante for lunch on a Tuesday and the two truckers next to you are eating a three course meal with a bottle of wine split between them followed by coffee and dessert, you see a different attitude to wine. In the countries I visited, it is a way of life to take your time, eat well and have a glass of wine with your meal. Coming home, I have found this almost impossible to institute in my own life--instead I am wolfing down my food while being distracted by what I have to do next. Wine is drunk here more like a cocktail, not as a dining accompaniment.

Spain is an immense land, which I found out while driving around it. It has so many different areas, all with their own personality. The Spanish are a very independent people, which is evident in the fact that the individual states have a lot of power in comparison to other Southern European countries. You also see this in the wines, with significant differences between regions and sub-regions.

Portugal was very similar to Spain in climate, but there was a different feel to it. Visiting the Douro River area and tasting the great wines and ports that are produced with distinctive grapes was eye-opening, and sometimes vertigo inducing. Many of the wineries still stomp their grapes underfoot, which was so surprising to me. Also the ports and other dessert wines were extraordinary, and won over many of my traveling companions who previously didn't like sweet wines.

Back on to Rioja in Spain. I had enjoyed the trade tasting the Rioja tourism group gave in San Francisco, and was able to tour many producers in this area. The wines were very good, and agreed with my palate. The people I met here were also very helpful and friendly, making the time there extremely enjoyable. This was the highlight of my Spanish wine tour.

Leaving Spain we headed to Bordeaux. This fabled wine making area I have read about for years, but have never understood the affect the land had on the wine. Getting to visit the different locations; St. Emilion, Medoc, Pomerol, gave me a new outlook on the wine. The geography was surprising to me, such a flat area without significant elevation. Throughout California vineyards boast their elevation, terrain and jagged cliffs. I didn't see that in Bordeaux. But tasting the wines, you see the difference. Yes, they have had significant success in the past, and money has been put in to maximizing the expression of ideal characters in the fruit. To look at a map does not allow you to understand what terroir means for the area. I was able to get to some great 1st growth properties and taste some exquisite wines, which yes indeed tasted unique to the area.

At the end of the trip I was in Burgundy. This was a late addition to the travel itinerary, but well worth getting to. Visiting several sites in the Beaujolais area, it was interesting how different the land was. The Saône river winds its way through, with some hilly areas and other flatter production areas. Many of the sites are small growers who sell their wine to a larger négociant or co-operative. Seeing the difference between small production areas and large Burgundy wines allowed me to understand the wines and the geographical distinctions better. The last stop in Burgundy was at a nice restaurant that served only local wines, which is easy to do in this area, and excellent traditional French cuisine.

Coming home I have been enjoying my glass of wine in the evening. I've been trying some new wines, while also going back to some house favorites. I have been surprised by how my palate has changed, often favoring the European wines I have visited. Some of the tried and true California wines taste big and overpowering recently. Now when I'm browsing the aisles at the wine shop, I know where the wine is coming from, and what impact the terroir has on the resulting taste. This is so exciting to me. Wine education is very important in explaining the story of a wine, and seeing the areas first hand has been enlightening. I recommend touring as many wine producing areas as possible, and am already planning the next itinerary. Argentina.....Chile.....

Workaholic goes on Vacation

Off to Europe for work. I'll be traveling to France, Spain and Portugal, with a weekend in Morocco. I'm meeting up with several of my clients while I'm over there, and am looking forward to a good education on European winemaking and get to understand the terroir better. I'll post updates while I'm traveling--Where in the Wine World is WineTalent! Look forward to a working vacation.